Reworking a Dell Latitude XT in 2024

Intro

I had an old Dell Latitude XT (first generation) in my posession since... quite a long time. One of the first tablet/convertible laptops by Dell, released in 2007.

It was quite a nice machine, but it suffered from multiple issues. On the one hand, the ULV Core2Duo and internal 1 GB of DDR2 memory are nothing to write home about - but the biggest problem in my opinion - is the used mass memory, a 1.8' 5400 rpm harddrive. And no, you read correctly - 1.8'. What's that? Thats basically the size and model of HDDs used in Apples iPods: They are awfully slow and even more prone to break.

Actually, I used this laptop quite a lot during my masters studies - and I had it breaking 2 drives in a short amount of time. I used it during a space campaign later, but after that it started to develop Read/Write Errors again and I shelved it - until now.

1.) RAM

The easiest thing to "solve" is the memory issue, solve - however - is a big word. You can extend the memory to a total of 3 GB by plugging in another SO-DIMM DDR2 667 MHz module, but sadly thats it. The CPU can address a maximum of 4 GB of RAM, but as 1 GB of RAM is already soldered to the mainboard - well, it ends with that upgrade, sadly. I had really hoped someone would have tinkered around with the BIOS and found out how to extend the memory by accepting 4 GB modules or such, but I have not found anything on the web - if you got something, please let me know :).

2.) CMOS battery

Being that old, (2008-03-26) the CMOS battery has long been dead. Sadly, the usual issue arrives - the laptop quickly turns on - then shuts off and does not boot. The first thing to do is to remove the keyboard bezel and keyboard - to be able to remove the battery altogether to allow the system to boot again. Removing the battery reveals that it has three connector pins: 2 GND and 1 VCC pin. Removing the shrink wrap shows its just an ordinary Panasonic CR2025 cell:

So, creating a new battery is very easy. As I did not have another CR2025 at hand with solder tabs, I just took a new CR2032, put the soldering iron to 420 Degrees Celsius and quickly soldered the connectors directly to the battery. But be careful, you need to be very quick to not damage the coin cell.

In the end I put it in shrink wrap...

... but I found out that the battery got too thick to be inserted beneath the keyboard. So I ended up in soldering ground directly to the GND terminal of the battery and the positive terminal to the side of the battery case - and keeping the solder as low profile as possible. As the shrink wrap also added too much height I put it into kapton tape.

Good thing - it worked out in the end :).

3.) Harddrive replacement

Getting a new harddrive for the ZIF PATA socket would be quite expensive - and the 1.8' drives will be slow and fail anyway after some time. So I looked for alternatives. There are ZIF Sdcard connectors, but they are also expensive and while Sdcards can be faster, they are still not a good memory media for hosting the OS of an Desktop computer. There are also ZIF SSD drives, but - again - very expensive. But the last thing I found was interesting: An ZIF to mSATA adapter for some bucks on one big online shop.

The most important parts of this adapter was that the ZIF socket did not correctly fit the original adapter cable from the Latitude XT and my mSATA SSDs passive components collided a bit with the adapter board, so the first thing I did was to use some kapton tape to make sure we will not create any short-circuit:

Then I lined up the original connector cable with the board, as shown, metal contacts up:

As written already, the original connector cable was "too thin" to be correctly grabbed by the ZIF socket, so I applied two strips of kapton tape to the backside of the connector to make it a bit thicker - this worked like a charm:

The last issue was that the drive was floating around the case - only dangling by the delicate ribbon cable. So I printed a little baseplate which would fit into the slot neatly:

Upon this baseplate I alligned the overall construct and made some notes so I could apply some doublesided tape...

... after I enclosed the new construct in the "rubber frame" I took off the hard disk drive and screwed it all into position.

Luckily it fit and even the old battery still had enough clearance to slide into position.

After that, I could use the SSD as any other internal harddrive and install Debian 12 on the system, which run quite well (the only exception were the lower touchpad mouse buttons and the very old Broadcom Wireless Card). The best part was the impressive speed the system now boasted - in contrast to the old clunky harddrive. Really nice!

4.) System Battery

Well, the main battery does still charge - but only to a certain degree until the battery icon starts blinking red and it becomes a bit... toasty. So, I took the battery out. Sadly the laptop is quite top heavy and tends to tipover if its used without the battery. There are still spare batteries around, but I wonder what the life expectancy of those would be, probably nothing fancy. I am thinking about dissassembling the battery and removing the cells, inserting some lead or other ballast to just have it in its original look (the main battery is an important part of the case which looks a bit... funny without it) and useability. But, thats something for later.

RAK3172T in Arduino

Updated on 2024-12-01 with latest fixes of STM32LoRaWAN v0.3.0

As the RAK11300 did not really match my requirements (it uses way too much energy), I looked further and found the RAK3172 which is based on an STM32WLE5CCU6 - an STM32 chip which usually include good powersaving modes. As with the RAK11300, I did not want to go down the Wisblock way and designed my own breakout board:

This was actually not complicated as the RAK3172 has all needed components on board. I just added an H7333 LDO for powering it from 18650 cells and two additional features: First, the i2c port was aligned with the pinout the the usual BME280 breakouts from your typical websources - so that I could directly plug those in. Secondly, I made a solderbridge that allowed this i2c port to be 3v3 powered either directly by the LDO or by an port of the STM32. The later option I actually now use in normal operations, as this allows the system to really cut the BME280 from power so that it does not drain energy while the setup is in sleep mode / not actively measuring.

As core I wanted to go with the stm32duino Core as it already had the STM32WLE5CC supported. The only thing missing was the fact that I actually bought the TCXO enabled 3172T variant and this was not yet supported - and so I got my first PR on the stm32duino repo.

For the radio library I was thinking about chosing the RadioLib again and made a lot of research already on how to get it implemented, but at that time, RadioLib was working around their LoRaWAN implementation quite a lot - and shooting for a moving target was getting me nowhere, so I tried out STMs own implementation.

Update 2024-12-01
The following two paragraphs detail workarounds for issues with STM32LoRaWAN v0.2.0 which have been resolved for good three days ago with release of v0.3.0 and are thus only interesting in the historical context of me setting up those sensors initially in ~June 2024.

(Fixed with PR #47):
This did work out quite well, however, there is to this day a bug with the timers which prevents the chip from ever waking up again - a workaround for it is given in the issue in case you want to try it too ( calling rtc.begin(true) after modem.begin() makes it work! ).

(Fixed with PR #44 / #39):
I also had an additional issue, I left the RAK3172T sleep usually for 10 minutes, wake up, do a measurement and transmitting it back - then go to sleep again. This worked in my testing until 28 "wake-ups" - then on the next sleep, the chip would never wake up again. I am not sure what is causing this, but I went down the road of just counting the wake-ups and restarting the chip after the 24 or so, just to have a safe margin.

Again, this was not a project I spend too much time with, I just wanted something to replace my breadboard wired mess of two CubeCell HTCC-AB01 - which absolutly did not stay unchanged in place since a short test back in 2021 and were working like this ever since (and suffering from disconnect whenever looked at from a wrong direction ;))

So - yeah, if I were to have time I would probably look and test RadioLib support.

Turing Pi 2 - Retrofitting an EMC2301 Fancontroller

The Turing Pi 2 (v.2.4) has actually some secrets that just start to get uncovered. Looking closely at the board, you will find the red marked area with what seems to be an unpopulated 4-pin fan header (J16) and an unpopulated IC spot (U109).

These spots were, as found out by Sam Edwards (CFSworks) actually a place to install Molex 47053-1000 4-pin fan connector and a Microchip EMC2301 fan controller. It is not clear why they were left out of the production model, probably for cost savings, but without that the Turing Pi 2 lost a nice smooth fan controller. However, thanks to Sam Edwards work, the chip is now supported by the Turing Pi 2 BMC, so that after retrofitting, this will just work out of the box!

To do this little hack you just need to order an Microchip EMC2301 in its MSOP-8 / standard packaging. If you don't find the specific molex conenctor its also fine if you "just" use an male 2.54mm header pin. Yes, you will not have the locking feature of that connector and you will need to watch out for the correct orientation when plugging in fans - but it still works in a pinch.

When soldering I would advise to solder the EMC2301 first onto its spot, the orientation is as shown in the second picture. Afterwards you can solder the fan header.

Make sure the circle matches up as shown so that you got the chip in the correct orientation.

After the installation, update your Turing Pi 2 BMC to the latest firmware 2.0.5. Please make sure to read the comments on the repo, if you're updating from a BMC version < 2.0.0 you will need to make a first flash via a Micro SD card to get to version 2.0.0 and update further afterwards.

When everything is done and you log into your Turing Pi 2 BMC, you will see this nice slider to set the speed of your EMC2301 connected fan.

Currently there are still some things up for debate and configuration with the latest kernel release which changed naming of components but overall its already working and a nice and easy mod to get a better fan controller installed - instead of just the "on/off" as soon as one Turing node gets activated - or all deactivated.

Again, thanks a lot to Sam Edwards who had the idea and came towards with the PRs and implementation - thank you! 🙂

GeeekPi RPi 4G Hat for RAKwireless RAK5146 USB

In 2021 I started playing around with the SX1303 based RAKwirless RAK5146 USB LoRaWAN concentrator in mini-PCIe form factor ( 1, 2 ). Back at the time I used the RAK2287 Pi Hat which - even though the website states otherwise ("Note: RAK2287/RAK5146 Pi HAT is compatible only with the SPI version of the RAK2287 and RAK5146 LPWAN concentrators.") is actually compatible with the USB version of RAK5146. In the second post I even want so far to hack the RAK2287 and bridge the PPS (Pulse Per Second) output of the included GPS onto the RPi GPIOs so that I could turn the RPi into a precise GPS NTP server - and I even added an I2C/"poor-mans-QWIIC connector" to it.

While all these hacks were successful and the balenaOS backed RPi 3 LoRaWAN concentrator was still working (with regular updates) in 2024, I finally wanted to streamline my overall IT setup: I had an WD My Cloud Mirror Gen2 NAS I updated to Debian 11 in 2022, the LoRaWAN concentrator/NTP server/Room sensor RPi 3 and an very old Medion Laptop was I was abusing as the main "server" - it was time to unify those systems and move on.

Luckily, I had gotten a TuringPi 2 and Turing RK1 SBCs which were a powerful combination: My plan was to use one RK1 in Node 3 position on the TuringPi 2 which did give the SBC one NVMe slot, a PCIe attached Dual Port SATA bridge and the additional USB 2.0 port which could be switched to any Node on the board. With the RK1 as a way more powerful CPU (in contrast to the old AMD 1 GHz Dual Core on the Medion Laptop...) and the Dual Port SATA bridge I already got Server and NAS functionality solved. But what about LoRaWAN and the other functionalities?

Well, as I bought the RAK5146 USB (with LBT and GPS), I could just use the RAK2287 to plug a cable from the Micro USB cable into the additional USB 2.0 port of the TuringPi 2 - and this was done. However, what about the GPS and PPS input to allow for an NTP server? And did I really wanted to install the RAK2287 into an ugly box - or leave it open for further projects?

Thats when I realized I still had the GeeekPi RPi 4G Hat at hand, an RPi "Hat" I bought back then when I thought that might be the cheaper alternative, but went out of my way to also buy the RAK2287 and never really tested it.

The GeeekPi is just an ordinary hat, well - lets say it does not even has any connection to the RPi, just an USB C port - not even some GPIO connection - its basically just an "USB LTE Modem in mini-PCIe to USB breakout" in the shape of an RPi Hat.

Looking at the SIM Card Slot I had some mixed feelings and hoped that it would not interfere with the RAK5146 - so I rechecked the pinout:

Luckily it turned out that the RAK engineers thought about this and marked the SIM Card Slot connectors as NC/not connect. With this, this card could be inserted into any Laptops WWAN slot or an SBC like the balenaFin. Neat!

After the pinout situation was clear, there was just one thing left: Soldering the needed connections directly to the mini-PCIe connector:

The needed pins were GND, PPS, PI_UART_TX and PI_UART_RX which I broke out onto a 2.54mm female header and fixed them into place with a bit of hotglue as strain relief:

Then I just needed to add an FTDI USB UART to the mix and connect these pins:

  • GND to GND
  • PPS to DCD
  • PI_UART_TX to TX
  • PI_UART_RX to RX

Afterwards I just needed to install the RAK5146 and the LoRaWAN and GPS antennas before powering up the unit via the USB C port of the Hat and connect the FTDI UART USB as well.

And the end I also broke out the RESET_GPS and STANDBY_GPS pins just for good measure, but as they are active low I did not need to pull them to any potential. But then again, it could come in handy in the future.

With those changes I can now use the RAK5146 directly over an USB connection and still get the GPS data and PPS signal for use in gpsd. I ended up printing an enclosure for the overall construction, added an 4 port USB hub and connected one of my RAK11300 breakouts as a Meshtastic node and another Waveshare RP2040 Zero as an environmental sensor which terminates a BME280 and an Amphenol Telair T6713 CO2 sensor to measure the room climate. I also rewired the USB 2.0 Hub to an USB C connector and now everything has its place - and I still have my empty RAK2287 board lying around in case I where to get another RAK5146 for other jobs ;).

Install a bootloader onto Turing RK1 eMMC memory

The Turing RK1 is a new Compute Module, made for the Turing Pi 2 board and with compability to the Nvidia Jetson cards in mind. While the board has some impressive specs ( https://docs.turingpi.com/docs/turing-rk1-specs-and-io-ports ) it had one small issue: The used Rockchip RK3588 needed a bootloader on its eMMC to be able to boot from an attached NVMe drive. As no isolated bootloader was available, most people flashed a whole OS onto the eMMC - just to be able to use the attched NVMe drive. This process can take quite a while via the Turing Pi 2 board ( e.g. 60 - 90 minutes: https://docs.turingpi.com/docs/turing-rk1-flashing-os ) it was never a good option.

Now there is finally a solution brought up by Mister gregordinary from the DietPi Forums - who deserves all the credit ( https://dietpi.com/forum/t/new-turingpi-rk1/19142/9 ):

On your local machine:

  • Make yourself a working directory and open a terminal in that location.
  • Download the u-boot apk: https://alpine-rk1.cfs.works/packages/main/aarch64/u-boot-turing-2024.04-r0.apk
  • Open it with an archive utility and extract the following files into your working directory:
    a. idbloader.img
    b. u-boot.itb
  • Create an .img file we’ll use later to flash the RK1: touch turing-rk1-uboot-only.img
  • You should now have the idbloader.img, u-boot.itb, and turing-rk1-uboot-only.img in your working directory. From there, use dd to create our combined image:
    a. dd if=idbloader.img of=turing-rk1-uboot-only.img bs=512 seek=64
    b. dd if=u-boot.itb of=turing-rk1-uboot-only.img bs=512 seek=16384
  • The resulting .img file can be used to flash the RK1 device through the Web UI or tpi utility.
  • Once generated, this .img can be used "as is" to flash the other nodes after moving them to NVME.

With that generated file you can directly flash the eMMC and use any NVMe to boot from.

... and here is already a prepared file if you want to use it directly: turing-rk1-uboot-only.zip

After that, the RK1 will be able to directly boot from an NVMe, given the fact a suitable ARM64 image has been installed on it.

And to install the operating system image onto the NVMe, you can use balenaEtcher with e.g. your Linux, Mac or Windows computer and an USB to NVMe adapter. But please be careful not accidently overwrite one of your interal disks and ruin your computer - I don't take any responsibilty, just in case.

Repairing a Turing Pi 2

Intro

In April 2023 I finally got my Turing Pi 2 - happy to finally got it into my hands I plugged it in, headed over to the Turing Pi 2 Github ( https://github.com/turing-machines/BMC-Firmware ) got myself the latest BMC firmware and started to flash it. Thats when things got wrong: The power supply coils started to screech - and seconds later I was greeted with blue smoke and a dead Turing Pi 2. The firmware update actually flashed the board into a paper weight.

The one green led was still on, the BMC led was off and the board did not react - also the networking LEDs were off. To be honest, this was the first time a firmware update actually physically bricked hardware / got it up into smoke.

Luckily, Turing Machines, the company behind Turing Pi 2 did send me another board, thinking that the (also ordered at Turing Machines) small form factor power supply could have been the culprit - thanks a lot guys for that tremendous help!

The new board was working without an issue and did wait for quite some time until I updated it - horrified the same thing could happen again. I think I updated it to 1.1.0 and things were ok back then.

However, with half a year passed and still the dead board lying around I thought, maybe I could fix it?

The incident

What happened was a short circuit - but how? The only thing I could think of was an error in the firmware upgrade - and the BMC processor - a dual core Allwinner T113-S3 - shortcircuiting something as it did not have its initialization correctly. While this should never be possible (e.g. that a board is layouted in such a way that a processor would short-circuit if it has no program available), I had no other explanation. But how to find out what was broken? The incident actually burned the 5A SMD fuse for the 3v3 line - meaning the board was now powering up ok-ish, but without any of the 3v3 components (e.g. the BMC). Short-circuiting the fuse directly lead to warmth and a bad stench - something was still short-circuiting. So I build myself a Thermal Camera. I was quite sure that the T113-S3 was toast by now, so I removed it.

After that, I tried bridging the blown fuse again - this time with an ampere meter. About 6 Watts were going somewhere I did not know. The Thermal Camera showcased an SMD capacitor glowing red - that poor thing got mangled so badly that it decided to become conductive for DC - not good. I removed that capacitor as well - no excess power was drawn anymore after that.

The repair

I ordered two new Allwinner T113-S3 ( T113-S3 ELQFP-128, position 2 on the picture below ) as well as some spare 5A SMD fuses ( LF5A - 10PCS/LOT 1808 SMD fuse 125V fast 5A, position 1 on the picture below ) from the web. The capacitor with 570uF was replaced by a 12.2uF for testing ( position 3 on the picture below).

As soon as I had everything in place, I got the latest firmware image, 2.0.5 from the Turing Pi Website ( https://firmware.turingpi.com/turing-pi2/v2.0.5/tp2-firmware-sdcard-v2.0.5.img ). I flashed it onto a MicroSD Card with balenaEtcher and inserted the MicroSD Card into the appropriate slot on the backside of the Turing Pi 2. With everything in place, I hooked everything up, got myself a flathead screwdriver and shortend the MOSI and SCLK/Clock lines of the flash module on-board of the Turing Pi 2 as mentioned in this issue ticket: https://github.com/turing-machines/BMC-Firmware/issues/134 ( see position 4 in green, the left bottom two legs of the chip ). You can also see the both legs better on the picture below:

With my screwdriver still shorting both legs of the flash module, I applied power to the Turing Pi 2. After some seconds, the LEDs came on and the 4 LEDs of the ethernet ports started blinking slowly. I removed the short-circuit on the flash module, pressed KEY1 3 times rapidly and the ethernet ports started turning on one LED at a time. After about 30 seconds, the LEDs stopped the animation and all LEDs blinked twice (again and again) to show the flash was a success. I powered down the Turing Pi 2, removed the MicroSD card and powered it up again - and it was fixed! 🙂
( Usual procedure for update from a MicroSD Card can be found here: https://docs.turingpi.com/docs/turing-pi2-bmc-v1x-to-v2x )

Good ending

With that, the Turing Pi 2 was fixed - BMC is answering my calls, all four nodes are working. It was not an easy fix by all means, but using a microscope, loads of flux and patience made it work again. And the Thermal Camera! That less than 40 Euro thing really helped a lot, otherwise I would have not found the issue without turning the whole board into a burning mess.

Building a MLX90640 Thermal Camera

Intro

Thermal Cameras are neat tools, especially in electronics: You can quickly diagnose short circuits, identify misbehaving components or quantify if subsystems get too hot. However, thermal cameras are still a luxury item which can quickly costs hunderds of euros. Sometimes - however - you do not need the accurarcy of a FLIR or similar system, somtimes its just enough to see which part of a PCB is heating up quicker than others. Enter MLX90640: A 32x24 pixel sensor in two different FoVs, exposing its data via i2c. These sensors can be had on different websites for as low as 25 euros during sale.

Components/BoM

  • 1x MLX90640 Thermal Sensor
  • 1x Waveshare RP2040 Zero
  • 1x HT7333 LDO
  • 2x SMD Capacitor 10 uF
  • 2x SMD Resistor 2.2k Ohm

All in all about 30 Euros

Schematic

Nothing really surprising - a HT7333 with some filter caps to allow for a clean power source, two pull-up resistors to allow for the high-speed, 1 MHz communication via the i2c bus. Keep the i2c wires between RP2040 Zero and the sensor as short as possible and pull-up the i2c SDA/SCL lines directly at the sensor.

Operation modes

There are two operation modes here, you can either choose to use the sensor with the Adafruit and Sparkfun example, which will just write a (very long) ASCII line consiting of 768 comma seperated float values per frame, delimited by \n. This will also work with a Processing example to showcase the picture (about 4 FPS).
The alternative to that, would be using another approach, packing the 768 temperature values not in a data intensive ASCII line, but send them via SLIP protocol to the computer. The processing example is not available for that, but I got some other Python code in the making (about 7.5 FPS).

Serial

Firmware (Serial)

Programmed via Arduino using the Arduino-Pico framework, using the Adafruit_MLX90640 library ( https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_MLX90640 ) - please be aware that 1 MHz I2C operations and mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_32_HZ) will only work with extremely short wires!

#include 

Adafruit_MLX90640 mlx;
float frame[32*24]; // buffer for full frame of temperatures

// uncomment *one* of the below
#define PRINT_TEMPERATURES
//#define PRINT_ASCIIART

void setup() {
  while (!Serial) delay(10);
  Serial.begin(115200);
  delay(100);

  //Serial.println("Adafruit MLX90640 Simple Test");
  if (! mlx.begin(MLX90640_I2CADDR_DEFAULT, &Wire)) {
    Serial.println("MLX90640 not found!");
    while (1) delay(10);
  }
  /*
  Serial.println("Found Adafruit MLX90640");

  Serial.print("Serial number: ");
  Serial.print(mlx.serialNumber[0], HEX);
  Serial.print(mlx.serialNumber[1], HEX);
  Serial.println(mlx.serialNumber[2], HEX);
  */

  //mlx.setMode(MLX90640_INTERLEAVED);
  mlx.setMode(MLX90640_CHESS);
/*
  Serial.print("Current mode: ");
  if (mlx.getMode() == MLX90640_CHESS) {
    Serial.println("Chess");
  } else {
    Serial.println("Interleave");    
  }
*/

//  mlx.setResolution(MLX90640_ADC_18BIT); //default
  mlx.setResolution(MLX90640_ADC_19BIT);
  /*Serial.print("Current resolution: ");
  mlx90640_resolution_t res = mlx.getResolution();
  switch (res) {
    case MLX90640_ADC_16BIT: Serial.println("16 bit"); break;
    case MLX90640_ADC_17BIT: Serial.println("17 bit"); break;
    case MLX90640_ADC_18BIT: Serial.println("18 bit"); break;
    case MLX90640_ADC_19BIT: Serial.println("19 bit"); break;
  }
*/

  //mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_2_HZ);
  //mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_8_HZ);
  mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_32_HZ);

  /*Serial.print("Current frame rate: ");
  mlx90640_refreshrate_t rate = mlx.getRefreshRate();
  switch (rate) {
    case MLX90640_0_5_HZ: Serial.println("0.5 Hz"); break;
    case MLX90640_1_HZ: Serial.println("1 Hz"); break; 
    case MLX90640_2_HZ: Serial.println("2 Hz"); break;
    case MLX90640_4_HZ: Serial.println("4 Hz"); break;
    case MLX90640_8_HZ: Serial.println("8 Hz"); break;
    case MLX90640_16_HZ: Serial.println("16 Hz"); break;
    case MLX90640_32_HZ: Serial.println("32 Hz"); break;
    case MLX90640_64_HZ: Serial.println("64 Hz"); break;
  }
  */

  //Wire.setClock(400000); // max 1 MHz
Wire.setClock(1000000); // max 1 MHz
//  Wire.setClock(3400000); // max 1 MHz

}

void loop() {
  //delay(500);

  if (mlx.getFrame(frame) != 0) {
    //Serial.println("Failed");
    return;
  }

  //Serial.println();
  //Serial.println();
  for (uint8_t h=0; h<24; h++) {
    for (uint8_t w=0; w<32; w++) {
      float t = frame[h*32 + w];
#ifdef PRINT_TEMPERATURES
      Serial.print(t, 1);
      Serial.print(",");
#endif
#ifdef PRINT_ASCIIART
      char c = '&';
      if (t < 20) c = ' ';
      else if (t < 23) c = '.';
      else if (t < 25) c = '-';
      else if (t < 27) c = '*';
      else if (t < 29) c = '+';
      else if (t < 31) c = 'x';
      else if (t < 33) c = '%';
      else if (t < 35) c = '#';
      else if (t < 37) c = 'X';
      Serial.print(c);
#endif
    }
    //Serial.println();
  }
  Serial.println();
  //Serial.write('\n'); //10
}

Software (Serial)

To read the data from the sensor, the SparkFun Processing example ( https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/qwiic-ir-array-mlx90640-hookup-guide/all#example-code ) can be used.
Alternatively, you can use Python 3.x and pyserial, giving back a list of thermal readings which can then be drawn into pictures.

import serial
import re
ser = serial.Serial('COM12', 115200, timeout=2)
while True:
    line = ser.readline().decode('ascii')   # read a '\n' terminated line
    thermalData = re.split('\,', line[:-3]) # last ,\n needs to go!
    print(thermalData)

SLIP

Firmware (SLIP)

Programmed via Arduino using the Arduino-Pico framework, using the Adafruit_MLX90640 library ( https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_MLX90640 ) as well as PacketSerial ( https://github.com/bakercp/PacketSerial ) - please be aware that 1 MHz I2C operations and mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_32_HZ) will only work with extremely short wires!

#include 
SLIPPacketSerial packetSerial;

#include 
Adafruit_MLX90640 mlx;
float frame[32*24]; // buffer for full frame of temperatures

void setup() {
  while (!Serial) delay(10);
  Serial.begin(460800);
  Serial.setTimeout(100);
  packetSerial.setStream(&Serial); 
  delay(100);

  if (! mlx.begin(MLX90640_I2CADDR_DEFAULT, &Wire)) {
    //Serial.println("MLX90640 not found!");
    while (1) delay(10);
  }
  /*
  Serial.println("Found Adafruit MLX90640");
  Serial.print("Serial number: ");
  Serial.print(mlx.serialNumber[0], HEX);
  Serial.print(mlx.serialNumber[1], HEX);
  Serial.println(mlx.serialNumber[2], HEX);
  */

  //mlx.setMode(MLX90640_INTERLEAVED);
  mlx.setMode(MLX90640_CHESS);

//  mlx.setResolution(MLX90640_ADC_18BIT); //default
  mlx.setResolution(MLX90640_ADC_19BIT);

  //mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_2_HZ);
  //mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_8_HZ);
  mlx.setRefreshRate(MLX90640_32_HZ);

  //Wire.setClock(400000);
  Wire.setClock(1000000); // max 1 MHz
}

void loop() {
  packetSerial.update();
  if (mlx.getFrame(frame) != 0) {
    //Serial.println("Failed");
    return;
  } else {
    packetSerial.send((uint8_t*)&frame, sizeof(frame));   
  }
}

Software (SLIP)

Using Python 3.x, pyserial and sliplib, giving back a list of thermal readings which can then be drawn into pictures

import serial
import sliplib
import time
import struct
ser = serial.Serial('COM12', 115200, timeout=2)
while True:
    bytesToRead = ser.inWaiting()
    if (bytesToRead!=0):
        readData = ser.read(bytesToRead)
        decodedData = sliplib.decode(readData)
        if decodedData != b'':
            thermalData = []
            for i in range(0, len(decodedData), 4):
                thermalData.append(struct.unpack('f', decodedData[i:i+4])[0])
            print(thermalData)
            # ca. 7.41 Frames raw
    else:
        time.sleep(0.07)

Finishing up

After connecting everything, I finished the build up by printing a small PLA housing and even printed a TPU cap for the lense itself, so that (via friction fit) the sensor could be just thrown into the toolbox and still would be protected from dust and other issues. Could the finish be gotten more pretty? Yes. Did this hinder its function? Not at all, it already helped me fix up a defective turingPi2 🙂 (maybe something for the next post).

Optimisation

As usual in engineering, some problems can be solved by throwing money at them. In this case, a Teensy 4.x as a processor could significantly increase the data throughput. However, I did not want to pair a 40 Euro MCU with a 25 Euro Sensor - be it for costs and footprints sake - and opted in for the 2.5 Euro RP2040 Zero. Still, performance can be improved over my first optimisation using SLIP - by just using the second core of the RP2040. Ideally you would multi-thread the application, having the first core always retriving new data, while the second core packs it into SLIP packets and sends them on their way. This should be fairly easy and might result in more fps :).

Photos

RAK11300 - Getting it to work with Arduino-Pico and RadioLib!

Intro

About a year ago I got some RAK11300 modules - which are a nice combination of an RP2040 alongside a SX1262 radio on one module - designed a breakout board - tested it - and quickly shelved it. Reason was that this module was somewhat Arduino compliant - as stated - however only with RAKwireless Arduino mbedOS Repo. Alongside of it being a bit... hacked together, it had the issue of not supporting any low power modes for the RP2040 - making it run on both cores at full tilt and consuming batteries in no time. Not the best thing for a portable/battery powered sensor system, I guess?

Some people tried already to get this RP2040 working with other software - e.g. Micropython or Arduino, but I never heard someone getting it working, so I tried my luck - this is the whole journey from start to finish. Spoiler, it is now working and you can find the example code at the end with Arduino-Pico and RadioLib now fully supporting this module :).

Pinout

The most important thing was trying to figure out the internal wiring of the RP2040 to the SX1262 - while RAK did not offer complete schematics, they at least revealed parts of it after asking in the forums :).

The antenna switch direction is controlled by the SX1262 itself through DIO2.
The antenna switch power is controlled with GPIO25
It uses an TCXO
uint32_t lora_rak11300_init(void)
{
    _hwConfig.CHIP_TYPE = SX1262;          // Chip type, SX1261 or SX1262
    _hwConfig.PIN_LORA_SCLK = 10;          // LORA SPI CLK
    _hwConfig.PIN_LORA_MOSI = 11;          // LORA SPI MOSI
    _hwConfig.PIN_LORA_MISO = 12;          // LORA SPI MISO
    _hwConfig.PIN_LORA_NSS = 13;           // LORA SPI CS
    _hwConfig.PIN_LORA_RESET = 14;         // LORA RESET
    _hwConfig.PIN_LORA_BUSY = 15;          // LORA SPI BUSY
    _hwConfig.RADIO_TXEN = -1;             // LORA ANTENNA TX ENABLE (e.g. eByte E22 module)
    _hwConfig.RADIO_RXEN = 25;             // LORA ANTENNA RX ENABLE (e.g. eByte E22 module)
    _hwConfig.USE_DIO2_ANT_SWITCH = true;  // LORA DIO2 controls antenna
    _hwConfig.USE_DIO3_TCXO = true;        // LORA DIO3 controls oscillator voltage (e.g. eByte E22 module)
    _hwConfig.USE_DIO3_ANT_SWITCH = false; // LORA DIO3 controls antenna (e.g. Insight SIP ISP4520 module)
    _hwConfig.PIN_LORA_DIO_1 = 29;         // LORA DIO_1
    _hwConfig.USE_RXEN_ANT_PWR = true;     // RXEN is used as power for antenna switch
#ifdef RAK11310_PROTO
    _hwConfig.USE_LDO = true; // True on RAK11300 prototypes because of DCDC regulator problem
#else
    _hwConfig.USE_LDO = false;
#endif

To sum up:

  • RP2040 connects to the SX1262 using SPI1
  • RP2040 has the same pinout/GPIO output as a generic Raspberry Pi Pico board
  • SPI1 however has its connections twisted a bit
  • SPI1 Pinout:
    • SCLK/CLK/Clock: GPIO 10
    • MOSI: GPIO 11
    • MISO: GPIO 12
    • CS/ChipSelect: GPIO 13
  • Additional lines needed for SX1262:
    • NRESET: GPIO 14
    • Busy: GPIO 15
    • DIO1: GPIO 29
    • RXEN: GPIO 25
  • LoRaWAN compliance is mentioned to be 1.0.2 specification compliant with Rev B, however I also saw mentions of 1.0.3 with Rev B

RP2040

To get this to work, you can take the legendary Earle F. Philhower's Arduino Pico repo, use the normal RPi Pico board and overwrite the SPI1 positions like so:

SPI1.setCS(13);
SPI1.setSCK(10);
SPI1.setTX(11);
SPI1.setRX(12);
SPI1.begin(false);

however, to make it easier I put up a PR to directly change those pinouts and integrate the RAKwireless RAK11300 proper into the arduino-pico framework.

SX1262

Lets get to the SX1262 library and the implementation of the LoRaWAN communication schema:
Luckily, Jan Gromeš, maintainer of the awesome RadioLib decided to implement LoRaWAN support - and the SX1262 modules. I tried to get everything working, however, there seem to be some minor issues. His library does detect the SX1262, however, I am not able to join TTN with it. The issue ticket is currently open here.

The most weird thing is still the GPIO 25 for me, the mentioned Antenna switch power. It might be all thats needed to put this port as output and put it on high to supply power whenever someone wants to receive/transmit - but I am not really sure yet. I have not found any evidence and I feel something with the join event in the RadioLib is still off as other people also saw issues - so there are probably two different problems right now.

Getting further

To understand the whole idea better, I opened up one RAK11300 and put it under the microscope. Sadly my microscope camera ain't really good, so the picture quality is a bit hit and miss, but as there are no pictures at all on the internet, I thought it might be useful for someone.

Some details:

  • Flash Chip is a Winbond 25Q16JVIQ (16 Mbit, should be 2 MB then?)
  • RP2040 is the usual RP2-B2
  • Semtech SX1262
  • Antenna Switch is a small 6 pin part with label 259 128, I not really found anything on the net, pinout looks a bit like that:
    GPIO25  | Antenna   |   DIO2(?)
                    259
                    128
*   VR_PA/RFO | GND     |   RFI_N/RFI_P

So it looks like the RP2040 PIN 25 could be really the "power supply" for that switch, while the DIO2 of the SX1262 would be changing the switch to either supply the RX or TX chains to the antenna output, however I am not that sure.

Photos

So, without anymore addition, here are the pictures, sorry for the bad quality.

If you have any infos to help on the quest, please let me know :).

Update to the Antenna Switch / GPIO25 (@2023-11-03 17:08)

Looking at the lora_rak11300_init, we can quickly find out that the GPIO 25 is used as power to the antenna switch, e.g. switching on the use of the antenna. Its important to see that TXEN=-1, so RXEN and TXEN are not used to determine the direction (e.g. if sending or receiving, but this is done by DIO2/directly by the SX1262 module. The use of RXEN/GPIO25 is purely for powering the Antenna switch:

    _hwConfig.RADIO_TXEN = -1;             // LORA ANTENNA TX ENABLE (e.g. eByte E22 module)
    _hwConfig.RADIO_RXEN = 25;             // LORA ANTENNA RX ENABLE (e.g. eByte E22 module)
    _hwConfig.USE_RXEN_ANT_PWR = true;     // RXEN is used as power for antenna switch
    _hwConfig.USE_DIO2_ANT_SWITCH = true;  // LORA DIO2 controls antenna

( https://github.com/beegee-tokyo/SX126x-Arduino/blob/fe6178f82d81e6509a5352f1d2aa85e433e19a7a/src/boards/mcu/board.cpp#L239C25-L239C25 )

If we dig a bit deeper, we will find the SX126xIoInit ( https://github.com/beegee-tokyo/SX126x-Arduino/blob/ca879479b25071c568ded9a60f7c060f10c7791a/src/boards/sx126x/sx126x-board.cpp#L49 )

    // Use RADIO_RXEN as power for the antenna switch
    if (_hwConfig.USE_RXEN_ANT_PWR)
    {
        if (_hwConfig.RADIO_TXEN != -1)
            pinMode(_hwConfig.RADIO_TXEN, INPUT);
        pinMode(_hwConfig.RADIO_RXEN, OUTPUT);
        digitalWrite(_hwConfig.RADIO_RXEN, LOW);
    }

This also shows that the GPIO25 is used only as antenna switch power and is configured as output, but still in "low" mode, e.g. the power switch is off.

In all instances of the Antenna used or the TX/RX channels ( SX126xAntSwOn, SX126xAntSwOff, SX126xRXena, SX126xTXena - https://github.com/beegee-tokyo/SX126x-Arduino/blob/ca879479b25071c568ded9a60f7c060f10c7791a/src/boards/sx126x/sx126x-board.cpp#L496-L555 ) we can see that the GPIO25 is pulled high, e.g powers on the Antenna Switch - and powers down after sending. It does not make a difference if TX or RX is needed, its always HIGH/ON when the antenna is used and LOW/OFF when its not. Probably to preserve energy. So basically, we would need to always set GPIO25 as output and pull it high when we need to use the module.

Update to RadioLib (@2023-11-03 20:29)

I got TTN working, however Chirpstack proved to be difficult. Reason was the error "ERROR chirpstack::uplink: Deduplication error error=Unknown data-rate: Lora(LoraDataRate { spreading_factor: 7, bandwidth: 125000, coding_rate: “4/7” })" reason for that was that RadioLib accidently tries to drive EU868 packets with 4/7 instead of 4/5 coding rate - so these packets are thrown away right away ( https://forum.chirpstack.io/t/error-unknown-data-rate-on-eu868-with-coding-rate-4-7/16109 ). I made a PR ( https://github.com/jgromes/RadioLib/pull/865 ) to fix that issue. There is also an error in the LoRaWAN example as handled by this PR ( https://github.com/jgromes/RadioLib/pull/866 ). With that we can finally join TTN and Chirpstack v4 servers! What is still a problem, is re-connecting: Trying to restore a connection ends with an issue -1101 in RadioLib, seems to be what was described beforehand in https://github.com/jgromes/RadioLib/issues/858. Lets see if we find something. Other than that, its looking so much better already :)/

Update to RadioLib (@2023-11-04 16:25)

  • The issue with the restore of the connection is now also solved, it was an issue with the "software" EEPROM on the RP2040 and has now been fixed by a PR ( https://github.com/jgromes/RadioLib/pull/868 ).
  • The switching of the Antenna Switch can be done as such (kudos also to Jan from RadioLib for pointing it out :))
    static const uint32_t rfswitch_pins[] = { 25, RADIOLIB_NC, RADIOLIB_NC };
    static const Module::RfSwitchMode_t rfswitch_table[] = {
    {MODE_IDLE,  { LOW }},
    {MODE_RX,    { HIGH }},
    {MODE_TX,    { HIGH }},
    END_OF_MODE_TABLE,
    };
    (...)
    radio.setRfSwitchTable(rfswitch_pins, rfswitch_table); // must be called before begin!
    radio.begin();
  • There is currently a big PR from StevenCellist ( https://github.com/jgromes/RadioLib/pull/867 ) being put together which will make everything a lot better - I tested it and now the RAK11300 is fully working!
  • Currently still working on getting my PR for the RAK11300 included in the arduino-pico, but we are getting there 🙂

Update to RadioLib (@2023-11-12 14:02)

RadioLib has accepted the PR and the needed commits are now in the main branch.
Both RadioLib and Arduino-Pico have not yet posted a new release version, so if you want to use the tech right now, you need to install the current main git branches.

Update to Arduino-Pico (@2023-11-22)

Earle has now released arduino-pico 3.6.1 which does include my contribution and adds the RAK11300 as its own board to his awesome Arduino Core ( https://github.com/earlephilhower/arduino-pico/releases/tag/3.6.1 ). You can download it right now via the Arduino Board Manager. So we just need for the latest RadioLib to drop :).

Update to RadioLib (@2023-11-29)

Jan has now pushed RadioLib 6.3.0 which includes all changes and fixes to support the module 🙂 ( https://github.com/jgromes/RadioLib/releases/tag/6.3.0 ). I am thinking about putting up a finale example to use it and then this project to support the RAK11300 directly via Arduino will be finished.

Full Example / Closing thoughts (@2023-12-01)

Following full example shows all magic needed to use RAK11300 with the Arduino-Pico 3.6.1 (using either the standard Raspberry Pi Pico or the RAKwireless RAK11300 as board setting) and RadioLib 6.3.0. It was kind of quite a ride and I am very pleased with this working now, finally. Thanks a lot for all that helped make this a reality. All the best 🙂

/*
  RadioLib LoRaWAN End Device Persistent Example

  This example assumes you have tried one of the OTAA or ABP
  examples and are familiar with the required keys and procedures.
  This example restores and saves a session such that you can use
  deepsleep or survive power cycles. Before you start, you will 
  have to register your device at https://www.thethingsnetwork.org/
  and join the network using either OTAA or ABP.
  Please refer to one of the other LoRaWAN examples for more
  information regarding joining a network.

  NOTE: LoRaWAN requires storing some parameters persistently!
        RadioLib does this by using EEPROM, by default
        starting at address 0 and using 384 bytes.
        If you already use EEPROM in your application,
        you will have to either avoid this range, or change it
        by setting a different start address by changing the value of
        RADIOLIB_HAL_PERSISTENT_STORAGE_BASE macro, either
        during build or in src/BuildOpt.h.

  For default module settings, see the wiki page
  https://github.com/jgromes/RadioLib/wiki/Default-configuration

  For full API reference, see the GitHub Pages
  https://jgromes.github.io/RadioLib/
*/

// include the library
#include <RadioLib.h>

// RAK11300
// SX1262 on RAK11300 has the following connections:
// pin name       pin number  pin mnemonic (RAK11300 board in arduino-pico)
// SPI1 NSS/CS:   13          PIN_SPI1_SS
// BUSY/GPIO:     15          PIN_SX1262_BUSY     
// RESET/RST:     14          PIN_SX1262_NRESET
// DIO1/IRQ:      29          PIN_SX1262_DIO1     
// RXEN/swpwr:    25          PIN_SX1262_ANT_PWR  
// SPI1 CLK:      10          PIN_SPI1_SCK   
// SPI1 MOSI:     11          PIN_SPI1_MOSI  
// SPI1 MISO:     12          PIN_SPI1_MISO

// RAK 11300 setup of SX1262 Radio
SPISettings spiSettings(2000000, MSBFIRST, SPI_MODE0);
SX1262 radio = new Module(13, 29, 14, 15, SPI1, spiSettings);

// RAK11300 setup of RF switch configuration
// powers up RF switch when modules wants to send or receive data
static const uint32_t rfswitch_pins[] = {25,  RADIOLIB_NC, RADIOLIB_NC};
static const Module::RfSwitchMode_t rfswitch_table[] = {
  {Module::MODE_IDLE,  {LOW}},
  {Module::MODE_RX,    {HIGH}},
  {Module::MODE_TX,    {HIGH}},
  END_OF_MODE_TABLE,
};

// create the node instance on the EU-868 band
// using the radio module and the encryption key
// make sure you are using the correct band
// based on your geographical location!
LoRaWANNode node(&radio, &EU868);

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(9600);

  // RAK11300 set SPI1 ports correctly
  SPI1.setCS(13);
  SPI1.setSCK(10);
  SPI1.setTX(11);
  SPI1.setRX(12);
  SPI1.begin(13);

  // RAK11300 add RF switch configuration to radio
  radio.setRfSwitchTable(rfswitch_pins, rfswitch_table);

  // initialize SX1262 with default settings
  Serial.print(F("[SX1262] Initializing ... "));
  int state = radio.begin();
  if(state == RADIOLIB_ERR_NONE) {
    Serial.println(F("success!"));
  } else {
    Serial.print(F("failed, code "));
    Serial.println(state);
    while(true);
  }

  // first we need to initialize the device storage
  // this will reset all persistently stored parameters
  // NOTE: This should only be done once prior to first joining a network!
  //       After wiping persistent storage, you will also have to reset
  //       the end device in TTN and perform the join procedure again!
  // Here, a delay is added to make sure that during re-flashing
  // the .wipe() is not triggered and the session is lost
  // delay(5000);
  // node.wipe();

  // now we can start the activation
  // Serial.print(F("[LoRaWAN] Attempting over-the-air activation ... "));
  // uint64_t joinEUI = 0x12AD1011B0C0FFEE;
  // uint64_t devEUI = 0x70B3D57ED005E120;
  // uint8_t nwkKey[] = { 0x74, 0x6F, 0x70, 0x53, 0x65, 0x63, 0x72, 0x65,
  //                      0x74, 0x4B, 0x65, 0x79, 0x31, 0x32, 0x33, 0x34 };
  // uint8_t appKey[] = { 0x61, 0x44, 0x69, 0x66, 0x66, 0x65, 0x72, 0x65,
  //                      0x6E, 0x74, 0x4B, 0x65, 0x79, 0x41, 0x42, 0x43 };
  // state = node.beginOTAA(joinEUI, devEUI, nwkKey, appKey);

  // after the device has been activated,
  // the session can be restored without rejoining after device power cycle
  // on EEPROM-enabled boards by calling "restore"
  Serial.print(F("[LoRaWAN] Resuming previous session ... "));
  state = node.restore();
  if(state == RADIOLIB_ERR_NONE) {
    Serial.println(F("success!"));
  } else {
    Serial.print(F("failed, code "));
    Serial.println(state);
    while(true);
  }

}

// counter to keep track of transmitted packets
int count = 0;

void loop() {
  // send uplink to port 10
  Serial.print(F("[LoRaWAN] Sending uplink packet ... "));
  String strUp = "Hello World! #" + String(count++);
  String strDown;
  int state = node.sendReceive(strUp, 10, strDown);
  if(state == RADIOLIB_ERR_NONE) {
    Serial.println(F("received a downlink!"));

    // print data of the packet (if there are any)
    Serial.print(F("[LoRaWAN] Data:\t\t"));
    if(strDown.length() > 0) {
      Serial.println(strDown);
    } else {
      Serial.println(F("<MAC commands only>"));
    }

    // print RSSI (Received Signal Strength Indicator)
    Serial.print(F("[LoRaWAN] RSSI:\t\t"));
    Serial.print(radio.getRSSI());
    Serial.println(F(" dBm"));

    // print SNR (Signal-to-Noise Ratio)
    Serial.print(F("[LoRaWAN] SNR:\t\t"));
    Serial.print(radio.getSNR());
    Serial.println(F(" dB"));

    // print frequency error
    Serial.print(F("[LoRaWAN] Frequency error:\t"));
    Serial.print(radio.getFrequencyError());
    Serial.println(F(" Hz"));

  } else if(state == RADIOLIB_ERR_RX_TIMEOUT) {
    Serial.println(F("no downlink!"));

  } else {
    Serial.print(F("failed, code "));
    Serial.println(state);
  }

  // on EEPROM enabled boards, you can save the current session
  // by calling "saveSession" which allows retrieving the session after reboot or deepsleep
  node.saveSession();

  // wait before sending another packet
  // alternatively, call a deepsleep function here
  // make sure to send the radio to sleep as well using radio.sleep()
  delay(30000);
}